Category Archives: Chefs

People I’ve worked for, people whose food I’ve eaten, or people I’ve read about

Cooking in the shadow: Crab cakes with thyme aioli

Listen to John Handy’s Hard Work by clicking on the post title. I was fifty when I finished my final shift working for Tom Douglas at the Dahlia Lounge. I punched out, changed my sweat-soaked socks, let myself out the … Continue reading

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The Back of the House: Sopa de Guajillo

This post was originally published in 2016. “Immigrants are good for our kitchens and for our country.” Ry Cooder and Harry Dean Stanton, Across The Borderline    “Le disparé cinco veces, por accidente.” Up at four a.m., on La Brea … Continue reading

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Food fight: Waffles

These days, everyone is cooking—not so much for the sheer joy of it, but because, other than take-out, they are the chosen feeder of the family. Wish I had what it takes to bake bread. I had a grilled cheese … Continue reading

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Take onions, for example: Mother Hank’s Hot Sauce

Click on the post’s title to see the videos. Once again, the objective reality of this story is fuzzy. Accuracy, personal attributes, and specific details have been swapped around to suit my fancy. So if you’re looking for the absolute … Continue reading

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Flow: Chicken breasts with Port

Rest in peace, Anthony Bourdain. To watch the video featuring Bourdain at Les Halles, click on the post title to go to my blog’s website. I was watching a TED talk the other day about Mihaly Csikzentmihalyi (had to watch … Continue reading

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Not me: Pear Tarts

Every day, the hosts and servers at Sound Food threatened to yank this tape out of the machine and throw it into the blender. The Me Too movement pointed a finger at politicians, TV hosts, the clergy, military personnel, restaurant … Continue reading

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Trumps: Bread pudding, Sautéed chicken with Port

  In February 1983, the twenty-five hours a week I worked at Stratton’s Restaurant didn’t produce enough revenue from my side of the bed, so I answered an ad in the Los Angeles Times—“Line cook for busy, Beverly Hills restaurant.” … Continue reading

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Molto Mario: Arancini

If you received this new post as an email from Marla in the Kitchen, watch the videos below by clicking on the post title, Molto Mario. You’ll be redirected to the blog’s website where YouTube videos can be played.  This? … Continue reading

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There will be blood: City Restaurant Tandoori Chicken

If you received this new post as an email from Marla in the Kitchen, listen to Tom Petty below by clicking on the post title, “There will be blood.” You’ll be redirected to the blog’s website where YouTube videos can … Continue reading

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Grease thieves or, “the vandals took the handles”: Boned quail with chili-infused honey

If you received this new post as an email from Marla in the Kitchen, listen to the videos below by clicking on the post title, “Grease thieves or, ‘the vandals took the handles.’ ” You’ll be redirected to the blog’s … Continue reading

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