Celebrate friends: Roasted Red Kuri squash soup

We zipped home from Claire and Vinny’s wedding through Northern California, days ahead of the forest fires that shut down the I-5 around Redding. Expecting heavy Labor Day traffic and fearing Burning Man overflow, we instead found empty roads and light traffic. Hairpin curves blended into straight freeway lanes and pine forests turned into fur. An overnight with Patty and Jim and into our driveway in time to drop off our bags an hour before the annual Summer Harvest Celebration dinner. 

The water in Eld Inlet sparkled under an August-blue sky, Food and Wine-worthy weather. We sharpened our appetites sitting on the front yard next to the Sound, eating toasts with fresh figs and Nancy’s superb tomato jam and everyone’s favorite—blackberry riblets.

 

Due to our move last year, we’ve recently been tasked with meeting new neighbors and making new friends. Maybe it was easy when we were younger, maybe it was never easy. First there’s the initial chatting up someone new, trying to remember their name, getting the drift of their general vibe, finding out if they love or hate the Yankees, if they talk incessantly about their pets and grandchildren, and whether they are talkers or listeners. Next there’s the awkward first few dates—your place, our place, or neutral territory. Then there’s the time, effort, and planning it takes to create a history with someone. 

Our old friends have passed all those tests, met the challenges, overlooked our faults, hired us, welcomed us into their homes for extended periods of time, are familiar with our ups and downs, remember our parents, knew us “when”, were there with ice cream when we needed it, grew old with us, stayed married to each other, and showed up on time for the past forty years. Who needs new friends?

Friends.jpg  Friends.jpg 

   

  

Friends.jpg  

  

Friends.jpg   

  

Anyways, walking into Tom and Nancy’s house was like coming home. We knew everyone’s name, we knew their kids, and we easily picked up where we left off. We’re well past the stage of putting on a good face—they all know and accept our regular, old faces. This comfort allows for in-depth conversations about getting a tattoo, skiing, the pros and cons of pickle ball, the upcoming primaries, the mixed bag that is traveling, the pitfalls of airbnbs, working vs. retiring, the health insurance maze, bad and good TV, growing old, death and dying, real estate values, the horrors of finding a good contractor and the joys of raising a child who wants to be a physicist.

                              1989

                                    1996 

                                  2003

 

                                               2011

                                  2012

 

                                  2016

The soup was exceptional, the chicken and roasted peaches tender, tart, and tasty, and I left with a bag of green beans, a bar of good Italian chocolate, and a jar of apricot cherry jam. The days may be dwindling down, but we’ll always have Succotash.

Red kuri is a hard-skinned, winter squash that looks like a pumpkin and has a mellow, nutty flavor. Nancy grew a wagonful this year and gave me one—we’ll have soup for dinner soon.

Roasted Red Kuri Squash Soup from The Cook’s Atelier, Beaunne, France

  • 3 lb. red kuri squash
  • 2 Tbs. olive oil
  • Salt and pepper
  • 2 leaves fresh sage
  • 1 cup thinly sliced leeks, white and light green parts only
  • 1/2 cup thinly sliced carrots
  • 1/2 cup thinly sliced shallots
  • 1/2 cup thinly sliced onions
  • 6 minced garlic cloves
  • 2 Tbs honey
  • 4 sprigs flat-leaf parsley
  • 3 sprigs fresh thyme
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 6 cups chicken or vegetable stock
  • 1/4 cup crème fraîche
  • Grated nutmeg for garnish
  • Minced chives for garnish
Preheat oven to 350°. Cut squash in half, scoop out seeds. Brush both sides with olive oil, season with salt and pepper. Place squash, cut side down, on baking sheet and bake for 1 hour. Scoop flesh into bowl, reserve.
 
Sauté vegetables in heated olive oil until tender, add garlic, salt, and pepper—cook 3 minutes. Add honey or agave. Tie herb sprigs in bundle. 
 
Add herbs and stock to cooked vegetables. Bring to simmer and cook for 15-20 minutes. Add roasted squash, simmer 30 more minutes. 
 
Remove pot from heat, discard herb sprigs. Blend soup, with countertop or wand blender. Pass mixture through a sieve. Adjust seasoning, if necessary. 
 
To serve: brown butter, stirring frequently until butter is golden. Top soup with browned butter, dollop of crème fraîche, grated nutmeg, and chives. 
Posted in Family and friends, Recipes | 3 Comments

Claire and Vinny Till Infinity

The sun rose on a sunny, August morning, as a vague bluish haze settled over the Sierra Nevadas—a perfect day for a wedding. The bridal couple dressed separately, each tended to by close friends and family. Claire perched patiently on a stool, wedding face emerging as the makeup artist brushed and patted. (“When did she get to be a beauty?”) The bridesmaids, dressed in matching flannel robes, lounged on the bed nearby. Riva, black Lab of the bride, sat at Claire’s feet waiting for attention.

In Vinny’s quarters, Laureen, mother-of-the-groom, steam-pressed his pleated white shirt and blue tuxedo pants. (“When did he grow to be so tall?”) The men got down to work, ironing, fastening buttons and studs—the groomsmen manipulating bow ties, the fathers adjusting the knots and length of grown-up ties. “Do you know how to work this iron?” “Did anyone bring aspirin?” “Do I really have to wear shoes without socks?” 

Using a knitting needle, Ginny, mother-of-the-bride, carefully fastened the long row of covered buttons running down the back of Claire’s lacey white dress. In a nearby bathroom, an emergency alteration was in progress as a passerby stitched a bridesmaid into her dress. “Anybody have some duck tape?”  “Did you see my shoes?” “Who’s got the dog?” Music and the murmur of wedding guests filtered into the dressing rooms, adding to the anticipation. 

The ceremony was held outdoors with North Lake Tahoe as the backdrop. The bride arrived in a speed boat, the wedding officials (“with power vested in us by the internet”) were friends of the couple, the flower girl rolled down the aisle in a Radio Flyer wagon, both Ron and Ginny walked Claire down the aisle, a dark storm cloud threatened to disrupt proceedings but thought better of it, and after heartfelt promises were exchanged, there wasn’t a dry eye in the house.  

Claire.jpg

 

Once we dried our tears, we moved over to the Gar Woods Grill & Pier for wedding food. Passed appetizers included mini-shrimp tacos, poke won tons, and mozzarella/roasted-vegetable skewers, with entree choices of salmon, filet mignon, or roasted chicken. Ron, father of the bride and expert wine maker, created a blend of Vashon and Napa-grown grapes for a special wedding wine, the “Cuvine Wedding Blend”, which was given to each guest in a mini-bottle with commemorative label.

After dinner, there was dancing, toasting, storytelling, singing, hugging, and an all around good time. True warriors celebrated til midnight and beyond; wimps, like the Sweetie and I, left for bed while visions of wedded bliss danced in our head.

I flipped through my mental calendar pages, remembering: a smudged-face toddler wandering barefoot through Ginny’s garden; three-year old Anna and Claire playing Barbies on a blanket in Muth’s yard, a nine-year old, pink-nosed bunny at my front door in her Halloween costume, a twelve-year old soccer star rocketing down the soccer pitch, a jubilant young woman in a green Vashon graduation gown, an intelligent, professional helping me decide how to fix my wrist pain. (“Wasn’t it yesterday when they were small?”)

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And while I remember, Claire and Vinny anticipate—their return home as a married couple, a honeymoon in Italy, their first, twelfth, twentieth, etc. anniversaries, holding hands in the dark, morning coffee, Christmas dinners, summer vacations, private jokes, the compromises, the joys of a long history together, being a family, and building a life—“one season following an other, laden with happiness and tears.”

 

Posted in Family and friends | Tagged | 7 Comments

Summertime comfort food : Loobia and Peach Pie

Before

After

Although Mt. Rainier is a looming presence in Puget Sound, it is a shy giant and sometimes hides under a blanket of clouds. Summertime brings out its social side and it towers over the landscape on sunny, blue days. The last two weeks, however, the mountain has been hidden from view due to the fires raging to the North in British Columbia, to the South in Oregon and California, and to the East in Yakima County. Our usually clean, cool air has become a smokey, orange/brown, haze of tangible particulants. 

Last week the Sweetie and I decided to drive to Yakima, through the Cascades, looking for relief and peaches. We found fresh air on White Pass and wildflowers on Chinook Pass, along with light traffic and beautiful views. We lost all four as we drove into Yakima, but hit the peach jackpot at Fruit City, a family-owned produce stand in business since 1966. As one of “the boys” (all the locals call owners JR and Lynn “the boys”) told me, “I get to work with my best friend and brother, plus every day is bring your dog to work day.”

Lynne and JR

We loaded up on ripe peaches and real tomatoes, bought a few pork tamales for the road, took home some barbecue dry rub, bagged five pounds of Walla Walla sweets, and headed home. Our vacay ended as soon as we got to Bonney Lake. Three hours later, after nightmare traffic and bad air, we pulled into our driveway, all traces of vacation bliss gone. But…what remained was the unmistakeable late-August urge to make loobia and peach pie. Luckily Ginny had given me a bag full of her garden-fresh, green beans and Nancy contributed a big, red, tomato from her garden, so loobia and a golden-brown peach pie were on the supper table the next night.

Don’t discount loobia because of the strange, unfamiliar name. It is comfort food at its best—here’s the Lebanese version Pop taught me. 

Loobia (Green bean stew)

  • 2# small cubed or ground beef or lamb
  • 1 onion chopped fine
  • 2 T. minced garlic
  • 1⁄2+ t. cinnamon
  • 1⁄2 t. cumin
  • 1 t. salt
  • 1⁄2 t. black pepper
  • 2# green beans
  • 2 c. diced tomatoes (canned or fresh)
  • 1⁄2 c. tomato sauce

Sauté onion, garlic, and spices in 1 tablespoon butter until onion are soft. Add meat and stir to break it up until the meat loses its pinkish color. Add tomatoes, tomato sauce and green beans. Simmer until beans are tender.

Serve with Uncle Ben’s Rice and yogurt.

Loobia is also good without the meat.

Peach pie

Pie dough:

  • 2 ½ cups all-purpose flour
  • 12 tablespoons cold butter, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
  • 1 teaspoon kosher salt
  • Yolk of 1 egg, beaten
  • 1 teaspoon cider vinegar
  • ¼ cup water, from 3/4 cup ice water
  • White of 1 egg, beaten
  • Pinch granulated sugar

Pie filling:

  • 6 or 7 ripe peaches, peeled and sliced, approximately 5 cups
  • 2 tablespoons lemon juice
  • 1 cup granulated sugar
  • ¼ cup all-purpose flour
  • Pinch of nutmeg

Make the pie dough. Using your fingertips or the pulse function of a food processor, blend together the flour, butter and salt until the mixture resembles a coarse meal. There should be pebbles of butter throughout the mixture.

Add egg yolk and vinegar to 1/4 cup ice water, and stir to combine. Drizzle 4 tablespoons of this mixture over the dough, and gently stir or pulse to combine. 

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface, and gather together into a rough ball. Divide the ball in half with a knife or a pastry scraper, then, using the heel of your hand, flatten each portion of dough once or twice to expand the pebbles of butter, then gather each portion together again into a ball.

Flatten each ball into a 5- or 6-inch disc, one slightly larger than the other. Wrap the discs in plastic wrap, and place in the refrigerator for at least 60 minutes.

Preheat oven to 425. 

Make the pie filling: Combine sliced peaches, lemon juice, sugar and flour in a large bowl, and gently mix to combine. Set aside.

Take the larger of the pastry discs out of the refrigerator, roll it out on a lightly floured surface and place in a 9-inch pie plate. Add the peaches. Sprinkle them with the ground nutmeg.

Roll out second disc of pastry. Place on top of filling. Wet edges of the bottom pastry disc with some cold water. Trim pastry, pinch bottom and top edges together and cut a few slits to allow steam to escape from the pie. Brush the egg white on the top, particularly around the edges, and sprinkle with granulated sugar.

Bake the pie for 15 minutes at 425°, then reduce heat to 375. Cook until peaches bubble (usually that means as soon as the floor of the oven is a big mess) and the pie crust is golden, approximately 45 more minutes.

Posted in Recipes, Travel | 1 Comment

Living the good life: Lemon Panna Cotta

The Sweetie walks along Pacific Beach, I sit above on the palisades—our old Sunday morning routine. Cliffs crowded at 10:00, I join a French-speaking couple on their concrete banquette under a spiky patch of palm-tree shade. 

Below on the white sand a stocky man in a Minnesota Twins T-shirt, radiating with unfamiliar sunburn, smears lotion on a naked toddler—mom stretched out nearby on a towel under a red umbrella. Toddler, with Dad at the ready, runs into the surf, is promptly smacked down by a wave, jumps up, and runs back to Mom’s open arms. 

A little girl in a neon orange life vest, bright blue wetsuit, and yellow surfboard falls off once, falls off twice, falls off seven times—on number eight, she rises warily to her feet, arms thrust forward, finally surfing, “Woo hoo.” French couple cheers and claps, “Bien joué, Emmie !”

A four-year old boy, being led unwillingly into the foam, clutches his Dad’s arm and shrieks, “No, no! I don’t wanna’ go out there! Get Mom!!”

Behind me on yoga mats, three travelers trade stories. A black-bearded man in a Red Sox baseball cap and his pleasant wife, on vacation from Boston, talk to a handsome thirty-year old with a prosthetic leg. 

Bearded man to handsome man, “So, how’d ja lose your leg?”

“My Harley ran into his Prius, I lost that matchup and my leg.”

Bearded man, “Add that to my list of why I hate Prius. Well you know the old saying, ‘Always ask a one-legged man the quickest way to get somewhere.’”

Silence from handsome man with one leg.

Beautiful girl in black bikini, “I got so much sand up my pants I may have to stop by Urgent Care.”

Surfer dude, “And miss Sunday beach yoga? No way!”

Emmie finds the French-speaking couple, they leave, and a fit, fortyish man, wearing a Led Zeppelin T-shirt and a bodysuit of tattoos, introduces himself and asks if he could join me. We sit in silence watching the paragliders drift by.

Steve removes his shirt and asks, “Would it be all right if I stand on our bench?” “Sure,” I reply. He hops up, turns around and announces, “Welcome to San Diego Sunday Beach Yoga. “Shift gears, turn your mind inward, and relax. Let’s start with cleansing breaths—balance your inhales and exhales—then go right into downward dog. Inhale!”

I turn around and along the palisades I see at least two hundred butts in the air.

 

Back home on Candlelight Drive, The Sweetie has yogurt and fruit, I have lemon panna cotta smeared with lemon curd and a thick slice of cinnamon-raisin toast.

 

Karen met this year’s bumper crop of lemons head on: a garage-refrigerator shelf of small, white, ceramic ovals filled with lemon panna cotta, little glass jars with lemon curd, Zip lock bags bulging with lemon juice ice cubes, bottles of lemonade, crocks of preserved lemon peel, and packets of frozen zest. Now that’s prosperity.

Lemon Panna Cotta

  • 1 cup whole milk 
  • 2¾ teaspoons gelatin 
  • 3 cups heavy cream 
  • 2 teaspoons vanilla
  • 1tablespoon grated lemon zest
  • ¼ cup fresh lemon juice from 1-2 medium lemons
  • 6 tablespoons sugar
  • Pinch salt

Pour milk into medium saucepan. Sprinkle surface evenly with gelatin. Let stand 10 minutes to hydrate gelatin

Measure cream into large measuring cup or pitcher. Add vanilla to cream. Add lemon peel, and set mixture aside.

Set eight 4-ounce ramekins on baking sheet.

Heat milk and gelatin mixture over high heat, stirring constantly, until gelatin is dissolved, about 1½ minutes. Move the saucepan off heat, add sugar and salt; stir until dissolved, about 1 minute.

Stirring constantly, slowly pour cream mixture into saucepan containing milk. Strain mixture into large measuring cup or pitcher, stir in lemon juice, then distribute evenly among wine glasses or ramekins.

Cover baking sheet with plastic wrap

Refrigerate until just set (mixture should wobble when shaken gently), 4 hours.

Posted in Family and friends, Restaurants, Travel | 2 Comments

Take onions, for example: Mother Hank’s Hot Sauce

Click on the post’s title to see the videos.

Once again, the objective reality of this story is fuzzy. Accuracy, personal attributes, and specific details have been swapped around to suit my fancy. So if you’re looking for the absolute truth, talk to Gordon.

The battle lines were drawn—you had to choose a side. When the Harlows took over management (heels firmly dug in), they were determined to avoid bankruptcy, bring Sound Food into solvency, project a tidier, straighter image, and attract customers who didn’t change the baby on the dining room table. Jeffrey, comfortable with his role as artistic director and all-around tribal leader, was just as determined to teach his staff professional culinary techniques, find regional produce, and use ingredients no one had ever heard of.

 

Jesus Barn

 

Lavender’s 

Billy, Jim, and Jack

They wrangled over the merits of the Rykoff man’s frozen, hamburger patties over Don & Joe’s bulk ground beef, Muzak instead of  live music, whether to serve side salads with in-house croutons or sunflower seeds, the virtues of paper vs. cloth napkins, flowers on the tables, one-ply or two-ply in the restrooms, and… onions. The kitchen went through at least 50 pounds of Walla Walla Sweet onions, 15 pounds of yellows, and 10 pounds of reds a week. The Walla Wallas were trimmed, cut end to end, peeled, and thinly sliced (vertically) for French Onion Soup and chopped for Mother Hank’s Hot Sauce; the yellows were trimmed, cut end to end, peeled and diced for soups, stews, and spaghetti sauce; the reds were peeled, trimmed, and sliced (on a #2) for hamburgers and sandwiches and finely diced for salsa. 

Jeffrey believed that the quality of any dish depended on the cook’s close attention to every detail and her use of good knife techniques. Take onions, for example: using a stainless steel knife (never a carbon steel blade), trim the end opposite the roots, cut the onion in half end to end, peel, lay the flat end of the onion on the cutting board, make horizontal slices through the onion stopping just before the root end, make narrow, vertical cuts side-to-side, square up the onion half, and dice into identically square pieces appropriate to the dish. French onion soup—thinly sliced (vertically), julienne-style; soup of the day—each ingredient should fit in the bowl of a spoon; stew—1/4-1/2” squares the same size as the root vegetables; salsa—square-cut in a fine dice; spaghetti sauce—diced to the size of the crumbled ground beef so as to “melt into the mixture.” 

Jeffrey confronted haphazard knife skills head on with sharp words. (This prepared me for the yelling and screaming of future Chefs who shared similar onion specifications.) Bruce, always on the alert for money-saving measures, scoffed at that waste of time and money. “An onion is an onion. Buy 100 pounds of yellows a week at half the price, throw them in that Hobart attachment thing I just bought from the Rykoff man, and move on!” So, if Jeffrey had you in the back prepping onions, you kept one eye out and had the Hobart set up just in case. 

So, the days of smoking weed behind the dumpster, making out in the walk-in, leading a dance-in during brunch, bringing your dog to work, wearing your skirt too short or too long, and letting your hair fly free were over. It was 1978 and the summer of love was long gone. A Californian had come into the blue haze of peace and love, offering the Tribe stability, heath insurance, and a Minglement discount. Island jobs were scarce and there were mouths to feed, so most members stayed the course. A few escaped: there was one with pigtails and overalls who hitchhiked into Seattle and left on a Green Tortoise bus, a couple and their parrot who moved to Bisbee, AZ, a baker who went back into the Forest Service to fight fires, a manager who opened a tea shop in Thailand, and a night cook who followed her sweetie to LA. 

For those that stayed behind, Gordon and Mary were there to console them. 

Mother Hank’s Hot Sauce

  • 4# Roma tomatoes or 2 large cans diced-in juice tomatoes
  • 1⁄2 red onion
  • 1⁄2 Serrano
  • 1⁄2 green pepper
  • 2 stalks celery
  • 1 bunch cilantro (cut off just below the leaves)
  • 1 small can tomato juice 
  • 1/2 t. cumin
  • 3 shakes of Tabasco
  • 2 t. salt
  • juice of three limes

Fine dice or Cuisinart onion, drain, and separately. You want the onions to be fine, but don’t want the onion juice to overpower the salsa. 

Grind remaining ingredients in the Hobart or a Kitchen Aid food grinder.

Stir in chopped onion. For more hotness, you can add some canned chipotles in sauce (a must-have for every pantry).

Posted in Chefs, Recipes, Restaurants | 1 Comment

Seeds, Sprouts, and Steak: Red Snapper Cozumel, French Onion Soup

I took considerable license in the telling of this story. Some (but not all) names have been changed, a few facts may have been exaggerated, several important dates might be wrong, and all memories have faded, but no animals were hurt during the process.

Photographs by Peter W. Murray

It was during a 1978 business trip to Seattle that the Harlows decided to hop on a ferry and visit Vashon. They climbed up ferry hill in their rented Mercedes, paused downtown at the four-way stop in front of Peoples’ National Bank, found just the right lug nut at the Vashon Hardware, appeased Rosemary with a Dilly Bar from the Dairy Queen, browsed for over-looked valuables at Owen’s Antiques, picked up a few hitchhikers in front of Vile Be’s Country Store, and stopped at Sound Food for a late lunch. 

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Vy Biel’s Original Country Store

We knew they were trouble as soon as they walked in. As John and I leaned against the reach-in (stepping aside each time Pat got an armload of side salads), he reported that (according to Liz, whose boyfriend’s sister’s daughter worked at the Dairy Queen) they were a rich couple from LA—Bruce, a mildly arrogant food photographer in his fifties, Jan, a former model/dancer/artist/psychic in her late twenties, and their mildly bratty daughter, Rosemary. Bruce ordered a roast beef, avocado, and provolone on rye, Jan chose a Supernatural Salad, and Rosemary demanded basted eggs, turned over once, sprinkled with grated white cheese and served with a slice of toast, buttered-on-both-sides. 

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It was love at first bite. Jan chatted up the cashier (who happened to be one of the owners), found out that Sound Food was for sale, and persuaded Bruce to take a meeting with Frank and the Johnsons the next day. On their way out, they picked up a dozen granola bars, a pink box of almond galette Bretons, a loaf of Bob’s French bread, four sesame bagels, three still-warm croissants, and two Big Oatmeal Raisin Cookies. Ample fuel for any future tantrums—from Rosemary or Jan. They were back that night for dinner. Bruce ordered one of the specials—Red Snapper Cozumel, Jan chose the French Onion Soup, and Rosemary demanded basted eggs, turned over once, sprinkled with grated white cheese and served with a slice of toast, buttered-on-both-sides. 

Dorothy and Dave gratefully accepted their first offer to buy out the remaining four owners and Sound Food changed hands. Along with the building’s long-term lease, an antiquated septic system, a failing dishwashing machine, and a well-used 1963 blue van, came a quirky staff of thirty moderately hard-working, commune and tepee-dwelling, college dropouts, and Jeffrey, the intense, artistic, long-bearded Chef who was firmly in charge, governed with a sharp tongue, and dressed like a Sikh. 

They had never worked in a restaurant; he started as a prep cook at fifteen, sharpening his knife skills in France and on the East Coast. They “thought it would be fun to own a restaurant”; he worked on the line for ten years in top Seattle kitchens, but was never able to raise the capital necessary to open his own place. They wanted to attract the steak-and-scotch, Vashon-Country-Club-member, Spinnaker regulars; he wanted to put more vegan food on the menu and add a juice bar.

Jeffrey (front right foreground) in Don Joseph and Liz Water’s production of “Jacques Brel is Alive and Well and Living in Paris.”

For the Harlows, the move to Vashon was an escape from Hollywood and the pressures, stresses, and social obligations “blocking their natural aura.” Bruce had a successful career staging and photographing food shoots for television and magazine ads; Jan loved to cook and entertain; and Rosemary was along for the ride. Jeffrey moved with his family from Capitol Hill in Seattle to pursue his interest in Tibetan Buddhism and cook in an atmosphere free from corporate supervision. He introduced Island diners to exotic food with an Asian bent—tofu, tempeh, wakame, wasabi, ginger-steamed black cod, tahini, umeboshi plums, and miso. Like his more famous counterpart in Berkeley, he was determined to buy less from the Rykoff man and more from local farmers. 

The battle lines were drawn.

 

Recipes from “Recherché Recipes, Sound Food Restaurant and Bakery”

Red Snapper Cozumel 

  • 1/2 teaspoon salt 
  • 3 tablespoons lime juice
  • 1⁄2 cup olive oil 
  • 1⁄2 finely diced onion 
  • 4 cloves minced garlic
  • 2 bay leaves 
  • 1 tsp. thyme 
  • 1 tsp. oregano 
  • 1 T. coriander 
  • 1⁄4 tsp. cayenne 
  • 1 finely diced jalapeño 
  • 1⁄2 diced green pepper 
  • 1⁄2 diced red pepper 
  • 3 Tbs. capers 
  • 1⁄2 c. pimento stuffed olives 
  • 5 Roma tomatoes peeled, seeded, and diced 
  • 1/4 cup chopped parsley

Mash 4 cloves garlic with 1⁄2 tsp. salt, forming a paste. Add 1⁄2 c. lime juice. Marinate fish pieces for 30 minutes or whole fish for 2 hours. If using a whole fish, make knife cuts in body and pour marinade inside cavity and over whole fish. 

Sauté onion and garlic in oil until onions are soft. Add bay leaves, thyme, oregano, coriander, cayenne, and salt/pepper to taste. Add jalapeños, peppers, olives, capers, and tomatoes. Simmer 1 hour or until sauce is thickened. 

Remove bay leaves and add parsley. 

If using fish pieces, brown snapper on one side in separate pan, add sauce and simmer 5 minutes to finish. 

If using whole fish, cover snapper with half the sauce and bake covered in a pre-heated 350 ̊ oven for 45 minutes or until fish flakes. Use spatula to cut portions from head to tail, and lift exposed backbone out.

French Onion Soup 

6 servings

  • 6 tablespoons butter
  • 4 medium sweet white onions, ends trimmed, peeled, cut in half end to end, then thinly sliced
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 1/4 cup flour

Melt butter over medium heat, add onions and salt, sauté briefly. Turn heat down to medium, cover, and simmer 5 minutes or until juices come out. Remove cover, simmer slowly until all liquid is cooked off and onions are caramelized and golden brown. 

Add flour, stir until mixture begins to brown.

  • 1 teaspoon thyme
  • 1/2 teaspoon white pepper

Add thyme and pepper, sauté briefly.

  • 1 cup white wine

Add wine and reduce until syrupy. 

  • 8 cups chicken or veal stock

Add stock, and simmer for 1 hour.

  • 6 pieces of dried French bread
  • 3 cups Swiss cheese
  • 1 cup grated Parmesan cheese

Ladle soup into bowls, top with slice of bread. Mound with Swiss and Parmesan cheese. Broil until bubbly.

Posted in Family and friends, Recipes, Restaurants | 2 Comments

RIP Tommy Allen: 9/21/1947-6/17/2018

Take a listen to Stan Getz by clicking on the post title. You’ll be directed to the blog’s website where YouTube videos can be played.

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You could easily spot Tommy at an Allen family event—he’d be the one holding a baby, grilling brats and burgers, or doing both. As the sixth of eleven children, Tommy had a lot of practice wrangling little kids. He was both protector and protagonist for his sisters Rita, Mary, Kathy, Barbara, and Jean, chasing off bullies and boyfriends with equal enthusiasm. 

 

He admired his older brothers Jim, Dick, and Steve. He was older brother and mentor to Norm, advisor and secret-keeper for his nephews and nieces and life-long best friend to his brother Bob.

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Tommy could easily have been Dos Equis’ Most Interesting Man in the World. He was handsome, he sailed a yacht through the Panama Canal, earned a degree from Evergreen State College, picked berries and beans in the fields with his brothers and sisters, worked on crab and salmon boats in the Gulf of Alaska, logged forests in Whatcom County, started an East-Indian import business, tended bar at Shenanigan’s in San Diego and managed Chaps’ in Stockton, was a broker for Frasier Yachts selling 80-120 foot boats to the rich and famous in California, Washington State, and Europe, held a 1,600-ton Master Oceans license from the U.S. Coast Guard, captained charter boats through the Straits of Juan de Fuca and the Gulf of Mexico, manned booths in boat shows from Los Angeles to Monaco, and was proprietor/grease monkey at the Green Light Garage on Bainbridge Island with Ali, Nick, and Baxter.

He rebuilt a burned-out catamaran in Port Townsend, played team basketball at Lompoc and matched jump shots with the young guns in his backyard, coached Little League baseball, could play a mean game of Hold ‘em or Chutes N Ladders, climbed mountains in Kuala Lampur, knew how to operate a road grader, loved Stan Getz’s saxophone, could bake a birthday cake, drove a ‘32 Ford on the 1960s Bellingham drag-race circuit, constructed a boat-shaped treehouse for his boys, bought his dad a twenty-foot bass boat, planted dahlias with Ali, cooked regularly for his family, washed and folded the laundry, helped Bob hand-build a quilt rack for Marla, built a 2,000 square foot shop behind his house, logged his acreage on Bainbridge, turning the trees into lumber at a local mill, drying the planks for two years in his garage, and bossing his family every weekend until beautiful hardwood floors were installed throughout the house. 

Tommy kissed his first girl at nine, bought his first car at fifteen, joined the Navy Reserve at sixteen, married his first wife at twenty, served in Viet Nam at twenty-one, found his best and final wife, Ali, at forty, became the proud father of Nick and Baxter at fifty, met his beautiful daughter, Inger, at fifty-seven, bought a run-down garage at sixty-five, turned a profit on that run-down garage at sixty-eight, and sold his last million-dollar yacht at seventy. Tommy functioned as the family banker, employer, confessor, and confidant. He charmed the woman, impressed the men, played with the kids, changed the babies, patted the dogs, ignored the cats, disobeyed the rules, and told everyone the best stories.

Tommy protected those who were younger and smaller, sometimes to their dismay. He and Bob were once driving down the streets in Bellingham when they saw a young woman being dragged out of her car and slapped around by her male partner. Tom pulled the car over, got out, grabbed the male assailant by his shirt, and bounced him up and down on the sidewalk a few times. “There! How do you like being slapped around by someone twice your size?” The young woman leapt on Tommy, shrieking, “Leave him alone! I love him, I love him!”

Family was all-important to Tommy. Ali was the love of his life, Tommy thought she was beautiful, spunky, courageous, and smart. He was proud of her career as a nurse, the way she embraced motherhood, her nightly 45-minute jog on the treadmill, her delicious muffins, cookies, and bread—especially the bread. He dearly loved his boys, Nick and Bax, and taught them how to fly fish, shingle a roof, fix a carburetor, make a grilled cheese sandwich, set a pick, swear, row a boat, be polite, respect their mother, and work hard. 

Ali.jpg Tom.jpg

 Tom.jpg  

Tom.jpg Tom.jpg

Over the years we weave a tapestry consisting of threads from friends, family, pets, work buddies, and loved ones. Some patches are colorful; other patches more subdued. Tommy’s portion was big, bold, and bright. He will leave a huge hole in the fabric of our lives. 

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Flow: Chicken breasts with Port

Rest in peace, Anthony Bourdain. To watch the video featuring Bourdain at Les Halles, click on the post title to go to my blog’s website.

I was watching a TED talk the other day about Mihaly Csikzentmihalyi (had to watch a YouTube on how to pronounce the name) and his concept of “flow.” I remember buying his book, “Flow: The Psychology of Optimal Experience,” in the 90s, but found the read too New-Agey and I never did finish it. In the TED talk, the presenter described flow as the mental state achieved when a person is focused on performing an activity for its intrinsic value and is fully present, immersed, and in the moment. A state that is relaxed but intense, where time flies but stands still, and where actions are effortless within a challenging situation. Think of Michael Jordan “in the zone”, or an individual who is rock climbing, mountain biking, or surfing. 

Csikzentmihalyi applied “flow” specifically to artistic endeavors such as playing music, writing, dancing, painting and intellectual pursuits such as scientific research, concept development, and inventive design. Although TED didn’t mention blue collar work, I remember times cooking on the line in a restaurant kitchen when, apparently, we were in a flow state. 

It began like any other night: each station set up for the rush, manned by a professional with skills that matched the challenge. Service started at 5:30 with a few early birds; gradually picking up steam—then let the circus begin. The expediter shouts orders from chits coming through the Remanco in a tappity blur—“ordering one monkfish, one lobster, three chicken breasts with port, three poussin, two skirt steaks—one SOS; salads out on the 12-top; pickup four breasts with port; fire three New Yorks; 3 out on those hushpuppies; where’s the skirt for 13; ordering one risotto on the fly; ordering two clam spags; draggin’ two side salads; pick up cheese plate for a deuce; 86 the branzino; hold table 23; that’s five breasts all day; order/fire one ribeye—blue; kill one New York; stretch the soup; VIP on 24; fire the 12-top; Ruth Reichl’s in the house.” Cooks echo each call-out, “Yes Chef! One monk, one lobster, three breasts, three poussin, two skirts—one SOS.”

The heat intensifies, the fryer boils over, sauté pans hiss and sizzle, bursting into flame as bourbon is added: HOT BEHIND, YES CHEF, I’M IN THE WEEDS, WHERE ARE YOU ON 24, DROP FRIES FOR 23. Dishwasher sidesteps onto the line, shouting BEHIND!, stretching to put clean plates on the pass, picking up bus tubs heavy with sauté pans.

No motion is wasted: bend down to pick four steaks, three chicken breasts, three poussin, one monkfish, and four swirls of pasta out of the low boy, run to the walk-in to grab a live lobster, pin him down on the table and cut him in half, spin six sauté pans onto the hot top, a round of oil in each one, brown the poussin, drop the pasta, slide the dead lobster down to the grill man, check the chicken, sear the steaks, breasts in the oven, steaks out, bourbon in, pasta in, drop the hushpuppies, poussin out, plate poussin, cream in the bourbon, pasta out, drag a little pasta water into the pan. Second push comes, repeat over and over in varying iterations until the rail is clear at 11:30.

We look up at each other and wonder, “What happened?” The hours didn’t exist, only the dance—we were one beast moving in slow-motion but at a full tilt. 

When I’m just cooking for me and the Sweetie, I still try to focus on the techniques, enjoy the ingredients, and remember what Michael Roberts used to say, “The easiest way isn’t the best way.” So I whack whole garlic cloves, peel tomatoes, fine dice the onions, trim the skin off the ham slice, make a fruit coulis for the salmon, fry the tortillas to soften before stuffing them for enchiladas, and brine the chicken breasts. I don’t achieve “flow”, but then I don’t limp all the way to the bus stop either.

Michael Roberts’ Chicken with Port 

Add butter to hot sauté pan. When foaming has stopped, brown chicken breast, skin side down. Pour off fat. Add 2 T. shallots, 2 parts red Port to one part chicken stock to sauté pan with chicken. Roast in oven for 10-12 minutes. Remove pan from oven, remove chicken breast and keep warm. Reduce liquid (port/chicken stock) to syrup. Add 1⁄2 c. heavy cream—reduced until thickened. Add 2 T. stilton cheese, and whisk in 2 T. cold butter. If the cream sauce separates, just add a little water to the pan and swirl around.

Posted in Chefs, Recipes, Restaurants | 1 Comment

Memorial Day

Each Memorial Day I write a post about our creative, generous friends from We The North and their ingenious, theme-based dinner party. This year on the way into Vancouver, we stopped a mile from the Canadian border crossing, on the Washington side, and went no further. We waited patiently, at first, for 90 minutes before The Sweetie bolted, made a U-turn and headed for home. According to the border wait-time app, we had another 70 minutes until it was our turn to lie about bringing food into Canada.

I hemmed my skirt, polished my boots, washed my hair, brought a gift sack full of new favorites from Trader Joe’s, and was reluctant to bail. But faced with another hour’s wait to cross and heavy holiday traffic into downtown Vancouver, I too was willing to flee. I regret missing the event, not seeing our friends, and giving such short notice to our hosts but there you have it. We were given lemons, but didn’t make lemonade. 

Speaking of lemons, the other day the Sweetie and I were wondering about one of our vagabond friends who left the Chicago project early. Where is he now? Is he working, relaxing, snowboarding? Does he still live in California?  We looked for him on WhatsApp, Marco Polo, LinkedIn, and Instagram, but no trace. Suddenly Bob had an epiphany—“I’ll call him on the telephone!” He dialed the number (actually, he told Siri to), and our friend answered. He and Bob chatted about work, life, the joys of a good mattress, and exchanged new project information—now we are up-to-date.

I wanted to make amends for bailing on our friends Memorial Day, so I considered texting—way too impersonal; emailing—does anyone even read their emails these days; Facebooking—I don’t have an account and neither do our friends; Snail Mail—who knows if and when a letter will come; so I went with old-school, but satisfying, telephone calls.

In the early days to check in with someone, we hitched up the horses, walked a few miles into town, or started a signal fire; now we can receive the latest information instantly. Today, calling on the phone, sending a letter, or even emailing is somehow old-fashioned. I like the peer-to-peer method, I like not having to squeeze my thoughts into 160 characters, I like seeing or hearing the subtleties of facial or verbal interaction. If I can’t do face-to-face, ear-to-ear will do.

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Keep Knoxville Scruffy: Beet orange salad

In a 1980 Wall Street Journal story titled, “What if you gave a World’s Fair and no one came,” journalist Susan Harrigan criticized the choice of Knoxville, Tennessee as the location for the 1982 World’s Fair, dismissing it as a “scruffy, little city.” Residents refused to retreat with wounded pride and have celebrated the label ever since.

1982 World’s Fair’s Sunsphere

 

Knoxville sits by the Tennessee River with the Great Smokey Mountains in its backyard. Fifteen years ago when I started visiting Knoxville to see my daughter and her family, the grands were young and we did kid things: feeding the ducks at Fountain City, picking apples at a local orchard, taking autumn drives to Cade’s Cove, and spending time hiking in the beautiful mountains. Now, the Smokies are indeed beautiful, but from a Washingtonian’s point of view, they are more like furry green hills than majestic mountains.

Our family’s “the hills are alive” moment

When they were young

As the kids grew older, we focused on downtown activities: shopping at Mast General, listening to live music at the Blue Plate Special, buying fresh produce from local farmers in Market Square, eating pizza at Tomato Head, drinking coffee at Katie’s Third Creek Coffee, or watching the rock climbers at Lauren’s River Sports.

Sister Antics, Blue Plate Special

Downtown Knoxville, Market Square

Knoxville reminds me of Tacoma: a red-headed stepchild, stuck between two cooler cousins. Tacoma—“Grit City”—forever in the shadow of Seattle to the north and Portland to the south and Knoxville—that “scruffy, little city”—stacked up against Instagramable Ashville to the east and Music City Nashville to the west. Seattle sold its soul years ago to Amazon and Portland is way too self-aware but let’s hope that Knoxville and Tacoma, on the verge of being declared cool, can hold on to their scruff and their grit.

Ashville

The light posts and parking meters are crocheted on Wall Street in downtown Ashville!

Early Girl Eatery

If only it were a 1962 VW bus

Woolworth Walk art gallery and diner

“Flat Iron,” Reed Todd

Bob found peeled, cooked beets, cryovaced in four packets of 6-8, the other day at Costco for $6. They’re not quite as tasty as the ones you roast, but way more convenient. So far, I’ve made beet soup, a beet lentil salad, beet pasta, beets and greens, beet, feta, and walnut salad, beets and cooked carrots (He also bought 10 pounds of carrots at Costco), and the below beet, orange salad. Can beet crisp be far behind?

 Beet, orange, avocado salad

  • 3-5 small cooked beets, large dice
  • 2 avocados, cubed
  • 2 navel oranges, supremed (see video below)
  • Halved grapes are good too
  • 1/2 minced shallot or thinly sliced green onions
  • 2 cups spinach or assorted greens, or none!
  • 1 tablespoon toasted salted sunflower seeds or walnuts
  • Slight squirt of agave or honey
  • Squeeze of lemon juice
  • Salt and black pepper to taste

Heat oven to 425 degrees. Wrap beets tightly in foil and roast until tender, about 1 hour. Once cool, remove skin and slice. Or buy already cooked at Costco.

Combine salad ingredients, serve with chopped nuts or sunflower seeds, and either attached dressing, Ranch, or dressing of your choice.

 Dressing:

  • 1 spoon Dijon mustard
  • 1/2 spoon minced garlic
  • Salt
  • 2 teaspoons vinegar
  • 1/4 cup olive oil
  • 1 tablespoon orange or lemon juice
  • Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper

Crush garlic, mustard, and salt with the back of the spoon.

Add vinegar, orange juice.

Whisk in olive oil.

Season with salt and pepper.

 
Posted in Family and friends, Recipes, Travel | 1 Comment